By Kathie Hagy
Yokote, Akita, 2010-2012
I miss onsens. It has been 15 years since I lived in Japan, and I still miss going to them, especially on winter evenings in the snowy region where I lived.
I miss the ritual of bathing before dipping into the hot baths: sitting on a small plastic chair in front of a mirror completely steamed over. The hot water pouring from the shower head, the soft smell of shampoo, the entire room cloudy with steam and the shapes of other women quietly bathing, too. I miss losing track of time while washing the day or the week away. I miss anticipating opening the door of the bathing room to a blast of cold winter air and a stone-rimmed pool of hot, mineral-rich water.
I miss sliding into the soft, still, steaming water. The trees and snow surrounding me, the stars shining above, the cold air touching my wet hair. I miss the trance-state I’d enter as that ancient, wise water warmed me to my core, and how my past and future seemed to dissolve. I could simply…be.
So, this past winter, new to Idaho and missing onsens, I started exploring some of southern Idaho’s glorious hot springs. While I’ve only scratched the surface of what this state offers in the hot water department, here are some hot springs in the area that I really enjoyed (Just like the onsens in Japan, each hot spring here has its own vibe and is its own experience.)
Miracle Hot Springs in Buhl
I loved this hot spring. I could have stayed all day. There are a few pools to choose from, including a really hot pool, and small, private pools you can rent. While this hot spring isn’t as surrounded by nature, it’s beautiful, clean, and the water is fantastic (and there’s a lot of fun nature to explore in the area).
The Springs in Idaho City
This is the first hot spring I visited in Idaho. It’s lovely! There is a changing room and two shower stalls before walking outside to the two large pools and one small (hotter) pool. The water felt so dreamy, and the facility is surrounded by pine trees. I’m glad I went in the morning. The Springs offers food, a bar, and massages as well. It can book up, so make reservations. Idaho City is also a super intriguing town (walking down the main street feels like walking in a movie set) and a fun stop before or after you soak.
Trail Creek Hot Springs in Boise National Forest
Be prepared to hold on to a rope to walk-slide down a snowy hill from the side of the road (where you’ll park) to this super rustic and cool hot spring tucked right alongside the river. There are two shallow pools to choose from. I loved how this hot spring felt like it was in the middle of nowhere. Keep an eye on the weather – it had snowed the night before I went and the road to get there hadn’t been plowed. Things got a little dicey, but the views on the drive are beautiful and it was worth it. This one is an adventure.
Trinity Hot Springs in Featherville
This place is a vibe. The water is so soft and clear, and the main pool is huge. Trinity’s website says that the water in their pools has been traveling underground for 16,000 years (!). There are a few large blue plastic soaking tubs hugging the edge of the large pool with hotter water temperatures. There’s a cold plunge tub, too, and a lodge if you want to make it an overnight trip. Call ahead to reserve your soaking time.
The Next Best Thing to an Onsen
While these hot springs lacked the bathing rooms and the sacred vibe (and the milk vending machines) of Japanese onsens––and required swimsuits–– they were amazing experiences.
As I soaked at each hot spring, I felt that dreamy trance-state return. My mind began to still like the water, everything that didn’t matter melted away, and I remembered, just like the onsens in northwest Japan had taught me, how to simply…be.